Chunky Little Crocheted Bowl

 

crocheted bowl

Hello my friends

I'm typing this with the door wide open, as well as the windows ~ there is a wonderfully humid breeze gently blowing and I have a feeling of happiness as I type because it feels like Real Warm Weather is finally arriving!
Today I'm going to give you a little pattern for my crocheted bowl, which is made out of just one ball of yarn and you can whip it up in just one evening (or a couple of hours).

 

The wool I used was Sirdar Sublime Cashmere Merino Silk Aran which I got on sale for just £1.99.
It is a 50g ball which measures approximately 86 mtrs in length.

Take a No.4 hook and sit and chain stitch the whole ball.  Yes.  The whole ball.
This actually becomes ridiculously therapeutic and I found myself in something of a trance like state once I'd got to the end.

Next, you're going to need a No.10 hook because you're going to be crocheting all those chains into a bowl shape and you're going to need something big to handle the chunkiness of it.

The following pattern is written in US stitch terminology, but Im basically using SC the whole time which is DC for those of you who read UK style.

Round 1: Using the chained yarn as you would ordinary yarn, CH2 and then do 6SC in the second chain from the hook.  SS to join (6 stitches)

Round 2:  2SC in each stitch around, SS to join (12 stitches)


Round 3:  *1SC in SC stitch followed by 2SC in next SC stitch* repeat this 6 times and SS to join (18 stitches)


Round 4:  *2SC, followed by 2SC in next SC stitch* repeat this 6 times and SS to join (24 stitches)


Round 5:  *3SC, followed by 2SC in next SC stitch* repeat 6 times and SS to join (30 stitches)

Round 6 - 10: 1SC all around in each stitch (30 stitches) SS to join.


Almost finished!! Of course, you can make your bowl smaller by starting to build up the sides from Round 3 or 4 if you prefer.  This size fits nicely in the palm of your hand:

The edging:  Tie on a contrasting piece of yarn (I used a spare bit of Rowan Handknit DK in white and a No.4 hook).  


SS to start, 
1SC and 1DC in next stitch followed by *1SS, 1SC, 1DC* in following stitch, repeat around and SS to join when finished.


Ta~DAhhhHHH!!
Now go and find somewhere eyecatching to sit your new bowl and admire it often.  Fill it with Nice Things.  Go and make some different sized ones and cluster them together....oh I'm just in LOVE with this little bowl pattern, so easy, so quick, so gratifying!


Whilst I'm rambling about crochet and yarn, I can tell you that I've managed to get into town to stock up on an extra ball of my waistcoat yarn...the end is in sight, I can barely contain myself!!!  Prepare yourself for a reveal Very Soon!!


Enjoy the sunshine, sending love
Julia x
 

How to Crochet Sea Pennies

Hello.


Today I'm going to share a short tutorial with you on how to crochet Sea Pennies!


I'm using Rico Creative Cotton and a Number 4 hook for mine, but you can use any wool and hook to get different sized Pennies (which is a nice idea for a chunky winter scarf methinks!).
The Pennies are really quite easy and created here using 12 Double Crochet stitches (US) and I'm sure some of you have already worked out how to do this, but anyway - here goes!


Let's get started.

Make a loop with the yarn as shown above in the picture.  We are going to be creating a Magic Circle so that there is no hole in the centre of our Pennies.  
Leave a tail end of yarn about 4-6 inches long.

From the ball of yarn side, wind and secure the yarn as normal around your fingers, then take hold of the loop between your thumb and middle finger.

Take your hook and push it through the centre of the loop, pulling back a loop from which you will crochet 3 chain stitches.


So - recap - hook through the centre of the loop, pull through a loop then chain 3.

Then, into the centre of the loop, DC 11.


*Make sure you keep hold of the tail end of yarn with the loop bit of yarn when crocheting your stitches, don't leave it flapping about in the breeze or you won't be able to tighten the ring at the end to make the hole disappear.  Look carefully at the photograph below to see that the tail end of yarn is together with the loop part within the stitch.  (I do hope this makes sense).

Pull the tail very slowly to close the hole, then slip stitch to join the circle together.  You should have 12 stitches around your penny now. 
Finish off by sewing the tail end into the underside of the penny.  You will need to do this to each individual penny to avoid being left with a whole heap of hanging tails :)

Below is a guide for joining your first row of pennies together, and then how to continue with the rows you create beyond this.


So, first row of pennies:  Make your next penny in the same way as described above, but when you get to the 6th DC in the loop, you will need to join the new penny to the previously completed one.

To join as you go you will need to complete the 6th stitch on your current penny and then insert your hook underneath the 6th stitch of the first penny:
Pull the yarn through the stitch (2 loops on hook)
Pull the second loop through the 1st loop to secure, like a slip stitch.
Continue with the rest of your DC into the loop as described for the first sea penny until you have 12 DC in your loop.  Pull the tail gently to close the loop, finish off and sew in the ends.

You will carry on in this way until you have a first row of Pennies from which to start building your work.  The photographic instructions that follow are for Row 2 and beyond, where you have to join several sides of each Penny to the other existing Pennies.

 

Second Row of Pennies: How to join the the pennies.

First of all, you will make a magic circle (as describe above) and do 10DC stitches into the centre.

Next..

To join your newest Penny to the first row (to begin to create your second row), you need to take the first two joined Pennies on the first row (the light blue Penny and dark Teal Penny in photograph above), and count around 3 stitches around on the light blue Penny from where it joins the dark teal *see where hook is inserted, that is the the third counted stitch which is the first place to join your new penny).


Push your hook down under the stitch to make a slip stitch.

Pull the yarn up through the stitch - bit fiddly but do-able.
(2 loops on hook)
Pull the second loop through the first loop on your hook (as a slip stitch) to secure:

Next, do ONE DC into the middle of the Penny loop:

You are now ready to join the new Penny to the dark teal Penny of the first row.  Again, count three stitches around from where it originally joined to it's pale blue neighbour on the right and push your hook down through the stitch as before (see photograph below):

Pull the yarn up and through the stitch (2 loops on hook) and pull the second loop through the first loop on your hook (as a Slip Stitch) to secure.

Then do 1 DC into the centre (12 stitches total) of the new Penny.
Take the tail end of yarn and now gently pull it until the hole closes up tight like shown here:

Close the circle by gently pulling the tail end.
Join the circle by slip stitching into the first chain.
Finish off and sew in the ends.

If you are making a triangle shape like I am for a shawl, you will need to repeat these instructions exactly to put a penny on the corner here:

When you need to start joining 3 sides of your new Penny to 3 existing Pennies like so...

...you will do it more or less the same again, except for the very last part - there will not be a DC to do after your final Join As You Go stitch, as you will have already completed this:


First Join As You Go stitch onto bright blue Penny, followed by a DC into centre (11 stitches)
Second Join As You Go stitch onto light blue Penny, followed by a DC into centre (12 stitches)
Third Join As You Go stitch onto turquoise Penny, followed by tightening the centre of the circle up, and SS to finish in 3rd Chain of first Chain. 


It's absolutely fine to do it like this and won't make any difference to your Pennies.  After your last Join stitch, pull the circle closed and then join the circle together with a Slip Stitch as described above.

______________________________________________

So - are you with me so far?  Does it make sense?  I do hope so, I've read through it all several times and fingers crossed I've got it right, but as usual do get in touch if you are struggling please!


Enjoy making your Pennies, and please share links to any crochet work you create using them won't you, I'd love to see what you have made.




Sending Crochet Love out to you today!
Julia x

Toasty Mitts

Morning folks!

As promised, today is Free Tutorial day, for a pair of cosy arm warmers.

For those of you who don't want to read all the pattern bumf, you can scroll down for a scoop of other news at the end :D

My pattern is written using USA terminology so for those who usually follow UK, I hope you can convert it easily. Only the basic stitches are used, SS (slip stitch) SC (single crochet) and DC (double crochet).

I used Sublime Cashmere Merino Silk DK wool in three shades, on a Number 4 hook to make my warmers, and here's how you can make yours!

'Toasty Mitts' Arm Warmers Pattern

First of all, measure your forearm roughly half way up. Mine measured 24cm and you will need to keep a note of this so that you can create a cuff that fits snug (without being too loose) to this length.

Make Your Cuff: Chain 10 + 1 (11)

Push your hook under the 2nd Ch from the hook and single crochet into each stitch along the row until you reach the end (this is a fiddly bit, yes).

Ch 1 for turning chain, and turn your crochet around to work the next row.

On this row, you are going to crochet a SC into the BACK LOOP of the stitch only.

Here is my hook, going under the back loop to show you:

Do a SC into the back loop of each remaining stitch on the row.

Ch 1, turn your work and continue, SC into the back loop of each stitch.

As your rows grow, you will notice a pretty rib pattern emerging:

When you have crocheted enough rows to meet your arm measurement, you need to join the cuff to form a ring.

Turn your crochet work around so that the rows are vertical when you look at them, and push your hook into the topmost corner stitch at the other end of your crochet work to form a ring:

Join with a SS.

Next, we are going to work around the long edge of the cuff with DC stitches.

These need to be evenly spaced, and if you study your work you will see a space at the top of each rib indentation, and a stitch roughly at the top of each rib protrusion (if that makes sense, oh I hope it does!)

First of all, push your hook under the first stitch on the cuff...

...and Ch3...

DC into the next stitch:

Continue around the long edge of the cuff, until you reach the end of your piece.

(here the hook is showing you roughly where to be looking for your stitch to DC into).

When you reach the last stitch space, DC into it and then join with a SS to the 3rd Ch of the first chain you made.

Fasten off, and tie/add another colour.

Hook under 1st stitch, Ch3, then DC around the row, SS to join into 3rd stitch of first Chain.

(it may be a good idea to have a stitch count, to make sure you are keeping each row the same length).

Work this way until you have approximately 14 rows (feel free to add more if you want them longer though).

Now its time to make the thumb holes:

Now this is where the arm warmers differ slightly, and is the only difference in the pattern that you need to take note of. To keep the seam running inside the glove (ie, palm side) we do our thumb holes in different places on the two gloves.

For the RIGHT HAND WARMER:

Hook under 1st stitch, Ch3 and DC around.

When you have 7 stitches left at the end of the row, it is time to create your first thumb hole.

Do 1DC (6 stitches left)

CH 4

Count (and miss out) 4 stitches and DC into the 5th stitch.

DC into the 6th stitch and SS to join to the 3rd stitch of the first chain.

Fasten off, tie in your new colour and as before, hook under 1st stitch, Ch3, then DC all the way around, simply DC into the 4 Chain stitches you used to make the top of the thumb hole as normal.

For the LEFT HAND WARMER:

Hook under 1st stitch, Ch 3 and do 1 DC into next 2 stitches.

Count 4 stitches and Chain 4, DC into the 5th stitch and carry on with 1DC in each stitch until you have completed the round.

Fasten off, tie in your new colour and carry on, as before.

You will need to crochet 3 or 4 more rounds of DC, depending on where you want the arm warmer to finish on your hand. To finish the arm warmer, the last two rows are both SC done into the BACK LOOP of each stitch:

*Attach new colour wool.

Hook under 1st stitch, Ch1

SC into BACK LOOP of each stitch to complete round.

SS to join into the 1st chain you made, fasten off.

Repeat from * for the second round.

You will now need to join together the edges of your cuff - there are a couple of ways to do it:

Turn your arm warmer inside out. You can simply sew the two edges together with the same colour wool, or you can SC them.

To SC the edges, hold the two edges together and push your hook through the two outside loops of each stitch. SC down the edges until you reach the end, finish off.

All that remains to do now is that nasty job of sewing in all the ends - just turn your arm warmers inside out, get a big pile of biscuits and a cuppa (always helps at these crucial mundane moments to have something nice to take our minds off it I think) and get busy.

By now I hope you are posing in your new Arm Warmers and making Happy Noises :D

I also hope the pattern has made sense - I really do, please holler if there are any bits you don't understand or you don't think Ive explained very well, I will email you back with some help.

Well!

I don't want to turn this post into War & Peace, so I will just quickly tell you about two other bits of news before I go - the first is very nice - two very kind and thoughtful fellow Bloggers have given my little blog an award! Yes, Two of them!! I couldn't get my hat on to be honest and feel very pleased at being chosen.

This one was given to me by Jessie

...and this one was given to me by Hilde at Quilts & Boxes

Thank you both so much!

I know I'm meant to distribute these awards, but you know me of old - I can't choose to save my life, there are way too many good Blogs to pick from - so I invite each of you, my dear readers, to please take a wee award for yourselves, you each deserve it for stopping by and reading my waffling...I trust you're still reading...you haven't gone have you? (although by this point I wouldn't blame you, it's been a lengthy tome hasn't it, what with that pattern!)

I will also endeavour to share some vital bits and pieces with you on my next post, as the rules do state you have to reveal things about yourself...but I think I've gone on quite long enough today!

Although there is one last thing before I go...

I have a new print for you - it's called Bear Hug, and it is a picture with some special meaning for me at the moment. Right now, my Little Egg is experiencing her first taste of nursery...we're off to a shaky start, and this picture is helping to remind her how loved she is, and to reassure her that Mummy will always be there.

I am popping it in my Print Gallery and in my Folksy and Etsy shops (links above), it might just make a lovely wee gift for someone and it costs just £14.00 with free P&P in the UK, and a small shipping charge for overseas.

If you are still reading at this point, can I just say 'Thank You' - and also 'Welcome' to some new followers, its nice of you to drop by!

Have a glowing weekend, sending you steaming mugs of hot tea, apple pie and clotted cream, and a golden September sunset...

Love Julia x x x

Popcorn Flower Granny Squares Tutorial

Hello!

What a smashing response to the Popcorn Flower Grannies!! I was over the moon to read how much you liked them, thank you so very much!

Without any more messing about, I reckon we need to get down to the serious hooky business of a PATTERN for you lovely people. I have taken plenty of helpful photographs for you, and done my best to write an understandable and easy pattern for you to follow.

And here it is! For info purposes, the stitches are in Ameican terminology, so I hope it doesn't cause too much confusion!

Popcorn Flower Granny Tutorial!

Ch 4 and join with a SS to make a ring.

Ch 3

1 DC into the ring

Ch 1

This is the first cluster.

The next cluster stitches are going to be DC2TOG (or sometimes, I think they're called Bobble Stitches) ~ Here is how you do it:

Into the ring, do 1 DC as usual, but stop when you have 2 loops left on your hook.

Next, yarn over, hook through the ring, pull up another loop (4 loops on the hook), and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook) and then yarn over and pull through remaining 3 loops on hook.

Following this, Ch 1

DC2TOG, Ch 1*; Repeat from the * 6 more times so you have 8 DC2TOG stitches in the ring.

Join with a SS to the 3rd stitch in the first chain to finish.

Fasten off.

Your circle should look something like this, if it does and you are happy with it, count up the stitches round the edge and make sure there are 16 in total.

Join your next shade of yarn.

Into the first stitch of the ring, hook under and chain 3.

This next part is the Popcorn Stitch. If you aren't sure how to do it, here is how:

In the same stitch, DC4 (the chain counts as the first DC stitch here)

Next, pull up a loop on the last DC, and take your hook out...don't panic, this is the fun bit!

Count back 5 stitches (this should take you to the top of the first chain) and insert your hook under the stitch.

Then, push your hook through the raised loop on the last DC, and pull this through the first stitch.

This draws the stitch together, secure it with a chain stitch which will sit nicely just at the back.

(We are going to do seven more of these, to make a total of 8 popcorn stitches). So, lets just go through it one more time:

Into the next stitch, do 1DC

Into the next stitch, do 1 Popcorn = 5 DC into same stitch, pull up a loop on last stitch, hook under 1st DC stitch, collect the loop, pull through and secure with 1 chain stitch.

Repeat 6 more times until you have 8 popcorns each seperated by 1 DC.

To join, make a SS into the 3rd stitch of the very first chain you made. You will discover this has laid down a bit behind the first popcorn stitch, and may take a bit of hunting out...don't mistake it for the chain stitch you made to secure the popcorn stitch.

The picture above is a rough guide to show you where your 3rd chain stitch will be, can you see it, hidden down the bottom there where my hook is shoved through?!.

Fasten off.

And this is how your Popcorn Flower will be looking now you have fastened off!

Attach another shade of yarn.

This is the part where we start to turn it all into a granny square. Look for the chain stitch you made to secure the popcorn stitches, it will be laying just behind it and these chain stitches are what we are going to crochet into all around the flower.

Hook under the Chain Stitch (where my hook is pointing), and Ch4

Into the same stitch, 3 DC.

Ch1

3 DC into next chain behind next popcorn

Ch 1

3 DC into next chain behind next popcorn, Ch 2, 3 DC into SAME chain behind same popcorn to form a corner.

This should complete your first side.

Continue your way around the flower, until you have completed the 4 sides with granny stitches. The last stitch will be 2 DC instead of 3, the first chain you made at the beginning of the round counting as the last DC stitch.

Join with a SS into the 3rd stitch of the original chain and fasten off.

We're getting there!! Its starting to look like a granny!! Hurrah!

Attach your next shade of yarn, this bit will be plain sailing for most as its literally a case of granny around as usual, starting with a Ch 4 and 3DC into the first space:

I know many of you are familiar with granny squares, but for those of you who aren't, then you are going to be crocheting into the spaces below that you created on the last round of granny stitches.

On each row you simply DC 3 into a space and follow with Ch1...and so on until you reach a corner, where you do 3 DC, Ch2, 3 DC all into the same space, and then continue as before.

When you have finished the 4 sides, you will make just 2 DC into the last space, and join with a SS into the 3rd stitch of the original chain. Fasten off and attach new yarn colour.

This is the final edging round if you want to add it (or feel free to just granny away and run off and make a blanket at this point).

Push your yarn under the first corner stitch next to your yarn, as shown in the picture.

Ch 5 (this counts as 3 + 2 = 1 DC stitch + corner)

1 DC into next stitch*; repeat from * until you reach the next corner.

Ch 2 (to make a corner)

1 DC into next stitch as shown above.

1 DC in next stitch*; repeat from * until you reach end of row, and continue until the 4 sides are completed.

SS into 3rd stitch of original chain to finish, and fasten off.

Sew in your ends...grrrrr, I don't like this bit especially, but it does make things look much better if we do it.

So, with my little edged 'PFG' squares, Im going to be making a little bag - but now, Im also tempted to begin another blanket, and perhaps you will be too!! Will you let me know if you make anything with this pattern? I hope you have fun with it, and if you get stuck, just holler and I'll do my best to try and help you. I really hope it has made sense and that I haven't missed any bits out (I've read through a couple of times so fingers crossed, it looks alright and I haven't forgotten anything).

Phew!! I feel a cuppa coming on after that!

Good luck and Happy Hooking!!

Love J x